Interning at Alexander McQueen — A Lesson in Fashion or Exploitation?

Waay back in Summer 2008 when I was a naive 21‑year‑old design student, I was lucky enough to be offered an internship at Alexander McQueen in the print and embroidery department. From what I remember it was a very special and exciting time in my life when I actually built the foundations for my creative portfolio of knowledge. The impact of this intense design tuition has been enormous in retrospect. Not only was it my first time on work experience but it was my first taste of London living.

I was lodging with a wonderful family in Primrose Hill and had the attic room practically overlooking the park. I would get the Northern Line round to Angel and a short walk to the McQueen studio on Amwell Street. The building wasn't particularly glamorous and there were more interns working free for Lee (Alexander McQueen) than paid staff, which caused much controversy a few years later in terms of student exploitation. At the time, however, I learnt far more about working life and design than I would have felt exploited. What I found so exciting was the three months of hard work which resulted in seeing some of my designs transformed into samples and eventually on the catwalk. I drew print and embroidery samples all day and saw noticeably different and improved skills each day, a focus and dedication I had never experienced. I was asked into the design team's offices occasionally and loved seeing Lee McQueen at work, his light studio space filled with moodboards that the students had to regularly update when design and themes changed. The only times I felt uncomfortable were when I had to clean the area, which included picking up the cigarettes from the floor. I fetched Lee McQueen's coffee once and remember it to this day as a triple shot Macchiato. I have included some images (excuse the low quality — they are 12 years old) of the flower samples for the show dress. To view the full SS08 catwalk show click here.

Looking back now, my experience feels even more significant in light of what came after. Around 2009, The Guardian published articles about the exploitation of interns in the fashion industry, pointing out how many studios relied heavily on unpaid placements, sometimes with more interns than paid staff. They raised serious questions about accessibility, fairness, and whether the glamour of fashion was being built on unsustainable practices. The reporting noted that unpaid internships were widespread despite minimum wage laws, that McQueen and other labels were mentioned, and that social mobility was at stake because unpaid placements favored those who could afford to work for free. The debate sparked industry backlash and forced people to ask whether fashion’s reliance on unpaid labor was ethical or sustainable.

For me, the McQueen internship was transformative, but I now see how the system could exclude many who didn’t have the financial means to take unpaid roles. The Guardian’s reporting helped shine a light on this imbalance, connecting to broader conversations about sustainability, equality, and diversity in fashion. Internships can be life‑changing, but they should also be fair. The debate that began in 2009 remains relevant today, reminding us that fashion’s future must be built on both talent and ethics.

My desk at McQueen Amwell Street

Number 10 Amwell Street. The Alexander McQueen Design Studio. Angel, London. 2008