Respecting Tradition: How We Approach Cultural Inspiration at Holland Street

At Holland Street, our kimono‑ and kaftan‑inspired pieces are created with deep respect for the global textile traditions that shaped them. While these garments have rich cultural histories in Japan, North Africa, the Middle East and parts of Asia, our work focuses on reinterpreting their silhouettes through contemporary printed textile design — not replicating or commercialising traditional dress. We use these terms to describe the style and structure of our garments, while honouring the origins, craftsmanship and cultural significance behind them.

Fashion has always been a conversation between cultures. Designers throughout history — from Paul Poiret and Madeleine Vionnet to Mariano Fortuny and John Galliano — have looked to global garments for inspiration, particularly the kimono. Its T‑shaped cut, wide sleeves and fluid drape have influenced Western design since the late 19th century, when Japanese textiles first appeared at international expositions.

Kimonos referenced in Paul Poiret and Madeleine Vionnet (1876–1975), Orientatlism period.

 

Today, the word “kimono” is often used in fashion to describe a loose, open jacket with a sash or belt — a silhouette inspired by, but not identical to, the traditional Japanese kimono. The same is true of the “kaftan,” a garment with centuries of history across multiple cultures, now used to describe a relaxed, flowing robe‑style dress.

This evolution raises important questions about cultural appropriation and respect. The conversation resurfaced globally when Kim Kardashian attempted to trademark the word “kimono,” prompting widespread criticism and a necessary reminder of the garment’s cultural significance.

For me, this discussion matters. As a designer, I want to be transparent about the language I use and the influences behind my work.

January Jones wearing our silk Tanaka kimono robe inspired by Ikko Tanaka's graphic design.

At Holland Street, I use the words “kimono” and “kaftan” because they help describe the shape, ease and movement of the garments I create. But my designs are not traditional kimonos or kaftans — they are contemporary pieces informed by my background in printed textiles, my love of drape and pattern, and my respect for the craftsmanship behind these historic garments.

I believe in appreciation over appropriation:

-acknowledging the origins of these silhouettes

-avoiding direct replication

-designing with integrity

-and celebrating the global textile traditions that continue to inspire modern fashion

My intention is always to honour, not to imitate. To learn, not to claim. And to create garments that carry forward the spirit of artistry, comfort and beauty that these traditional forms embody.

Love Lauren x